Spring is officially in full force, which means all of our planning and excitement is coming to fruition out in the vegetable garden. With any luck, you’ve had your greens and cabbages and peas in the ground for a little while now and are already eating your own homegrown food. As we enter May, though, it’s time to start getting ready to put our summer-loving plants in the ground; and with the weather we’ve been having, most of us are there. Whether you’re fresh to gardening or well-seasoned, let’s explore some ways to get started this season to set ourselves up for a bountiful harvest.
Soil Temperature
Looking at the UNL CropWatch Soil Temperature Update, we can see that most of the eastern half and the southern border of the state are now consistently above 60°F at 4-inches across a weekly average, as of this writing on May 14. If you are in these areas, or if you are growing in raised beds, you are good to get rolling on your garden. If you are in the far western and northern reaches, you still want to wait until soil temperatures reach at least 60° before putting summer crops in the ground such as peppers, eggplants and herbs. Direct-sow crops such as beans, squash, melons and others also need to wait until around 60° for optimal germination and less risk of loss. Everyone should be able to have everything in the ground by next weekend.
Harden off indoor starts before putting them in the ground. Out in the morning, in at night for a few days will get them acclimated to the new conditions, and then a couple more days outside and overnight before going into the ground will give them the most success establishing once planted.
Ground Preparation
Hopefully your garden bed has been mulched with some organic matter over the winter or even a September/October-sown cover crop like oats, barley or peas. This helps prevent erosion, provides some living space for overwintering insects and can provide a bit of nutrients as it breaks down. If it sat bare that’s fine, but consider a cover crop, leaf matter or other kind of covering for the winter – non-diseased plant material is best.
As best as you can, put down that rototiller! If you are trying to cultivate deep trenches for potatoes, that is one thing, but if you are seeding a row or planting individual plants, there is no need to till up an entire garden bed. This only serves to disturb the microenvironment and soil life that keeps your soil healthy and increases the opportunity for the soil to erode or compact unfavorably once it settles. Using a tool such as a hand tiller or rotary cultivator should be all you need to prep a space or row.
When turning over a row or planting, plan to incorporate some kind of compost and/or organic material. There are lots of options available at the typical nursery or big-box store. Something like composted chicken or cow manure will have a higher nitrogen content than, say, mushroom compost, but the mushroom compost also contains a high amount of organic matter that can add to the long-term health of your soil. Mushroom and other composts generally can contain high levels of salts, so start out sparingly to make sure you don’t burn your plants. If you have a trusted local source of compost, that is a great choice for balancing available nutrients and organic matter.
Spread a layer of compost on the soil and gently work it in with the afore-mentioned hand tools if you are preparing a row. If planting individual plants, you can either rake out a layer across the garden bed or drop a small pile before digging the hole for your transplant.
Planting and Care
Be sure to read labels and/or seed packets to learn the proper spacing of your plants and for thinning direct-sow crops as needed.
Transplants should be well watered prior to planting to reduce the risk of shock and watered in after planting. Loosen the roots at the bottom of the plug to promote better development in the early days after planting. A general rule of thumb is to plant most plants at least slightly deeper that the level of the plug, even up to the lowerst leaf node; tomatoes should have the lowest one or two sets of leaves removed, depending on how leggy they are, and planted to the new lowest node. This will generate a more robust plant above and below ground.
In general, plants should get around 1″ of water per week, so plan your strategy early to keep consistent moisture levels. Inconsistent water can lead to stressed plants, bitter vegetables, and is the main cause of blossom end rot. Soaker hoses and other drip irrigation strategies are best for localized, deep watering of plants that can also help keep the garden on a good schedule. As plants grow, keep lower leaves pinched and monitor for dense canopy growth – remove branches or leaves as necessary to prevent damp conditions that allow pests and pathogens to thrive. Having a layer of mulch also prevents splashing from the ground which can transmit disease. Applications of pesticide-free grass clippings are a great choice for this as well as for weed suppression and moisture retention that will break down to add to soil health over time.
Interplanting
This year, consider spacing your garden crops a little farther apart to make some room for herbs or flowers. Herbs are a fun way to diversify how your garden is planted and what you feel like cooking with; they can also act as a physical barrier between plants to reduce pest pressures. If you aren’t ready to dive in with perennial herbs like oregano, sage or tarragon, consider annuals like basil, rosemary or even lavender (marginally hardy here). Dill and fennel do not survive our winters, but readily seed out and have the added bonus of being a host plant for the eastern black swallowtail butterfly.
Flowers not only add beauty, but they also enhance our gardens (and our yields) by inviting pollinators and predatory insects and bugs to our homes. Supporting populations of these creatures can increase yield with good pollination and help the overall health of the plant by reducing pest pressures.
