Many blog readers like Step-by-Step cookbook instructions. If your lawn is suffering from disease, grubs, weeds, drought, cats, etc., read on. Here’s the prescription:
1. Determine why the lawn is ailing. Identify the cause. If you don’t, the likelihood of lawn failure next year is high.
2. Deal with the ailment. Ie. Kill the grubs/billbugs/sod webworms, increase the water penetration, increase the irrigation uniformity, sharpen the mower blade, plan to re-seed with disease resistant grasses, and/or use preemergence herbicides in spring.
3. In Mid-August, create a seedbed. If a few spots are present, aerate in 3 directions or powerrake in 2 directions. If many areas or more than 50% is affected, spray the lawn with glyphosate and powerrake. Read and follow all label directions.
4. Rake and remove the dead plant debris. This is a good material to add to a compost pile.
5. Reseed. Use a drop spreader to apply 2-3 lbs. of Kentucky bluegrass per 1,000 sq.ft.; 9 lbs of turf type tall fescue per 1,000.
6. Lightly rake the area to settle the seed and increase seed to soil contact. An upturned leaf rake works well for this purpose.
7. Apply a starter fertilizer product containing mesotrione or topramezone according to the label directions. If you use a starter fertilizer product without mesotrione or topramezone, wait to apply it until after the new grass seedlings are a half inch tall. Read and follow all label directions. Hand pull weeds that germinate and begin competing with the new desirable seedlings.
8. Water. Frequently at first, 3 times per day for 10 minutes or so.. During the next 2weeks, water 2 times per day and let the irrigation run a bit longer. Keep the soil moist, not soggy or dry. Check it frequently with a screwdriver.
9. Mow the new turf when it reaches 2-3 inches tall.
10. Enjoy for years to come.
